Eclano
Saturday, May 19, 2007
Overall Rating: Sick Potential (70 out of 100)
54 Salem Street
Boston, MA 02113
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Phone: 617-720-6001
A relative newcomer to the North End, Eclano focuses on modern interpretations of regional Italian cooking. Unfortunately, sick homemade pasta dishes did not make up for disastrous clams and a barren dining scene.
Our History at Eclano
Our first visit to Eclano was on a Friday night at 8:00pm.
Appetizers
Eclano's appetizers range from $7 to $14 and include sauteed calamari, seared scallops, baked littleneck clams, grilled sweetbreads, and crispy duck leg confit. We went with the littleneck clams as well as the scallops.
The baked littleneck clams were served with lemon, oregano, and crispy prosciutto. At first bite, we tasted mostly prosciutto, crisp just like bacon. A few moments later, we nearly spit out the sour-tasting clam. Throughout the years, we've eaten many clams served many ways at many temperatures. We'll give Eclano the benefit of the doubt; they insisted that the clams were fresh. Regardless, we would not have fed these clams to our worst enemy.
In terms of cuisine, the clams were an anomaly. We enjoyed the scallops with grilled radicchio, chive, and warm pancetta dressing. Homemade focaccia was served with delicious pureed eggplant and fresh basil with olive oil.
Rating: 6
Main Dishes
When it comes to entrees, Eclano shines. Six housemade pasta dishes, blended with fresh produce, seafood, and meat, range from $17 to $27. Five meat dishes range from $24 to $34. Pasta dishes include tagliatelli, pappardelle, risotto, and potato ravioli with braised veal brisket. Meat dishes include grilled hangar steak, grilled rack of lamb, pan roasted chicken breast, and a grilled veal chop. We opted for the tagliatelli and pappardelle dishes.
Wide, flowing pappardelle, king oyster mushrooms, roasted red peppers, and caramelized onion were served with tender, braised rabbit and juicy rabbit meatballs. Hand-cut saffron tagliatelli was served with shrimp, rabe, and oven roasted tomatoes in a spicy seafood broth. The homemade pastas and creative combinations made for a decidedly sick meal. Portions were ample.
Rating: 8.8
Drinks
Beer, wine, and cordials are available. A bottle of red starts at $38 and a bottle of white starts at $30. Wine is available by the glass, poured generously. There is a small bar near the entrance. Hard booze is not served.
Rating: 8.4
Service
Our waiter was jovial albeit annoying. He grew defensive about the clams, intimating that our palates were to blame. With few guests and little to do, he talked our ears off and re-filled our wine glasses at an alarming pace.
Rating: 6
Ambiance
Eclano was stunningly barren. There was only one other party. The restaurant seemed like a model room at Crate and Barrel - lots of new, dark wood, crystal clean, and no soul. Vacant walls underscored Eclano's emptiness.
Rating: 6
Et Cetera
Trivia: Eclano is owned by Caterina DiPrisco, former co-owner of Trattoria a Scalinatella. Eclano is named for DiPrisco's hometown outside of Naples.
Menu: Check out Eclano's web site for more information
Reservations: Eclano is on OpenTable
Transportation: Park in one of several nearby parking garages or take the Green Line or Orange Line to Haymarket.
Dress: Casual
Hours: Dinner is served every day from 5pm until 11pm.
Labels: Eclano, Italian, North-End, Sick-Potential
