Eclano

Saturday, May 19, 2007

Overall Rating: Sick Potential (70 out of 100)

54 Salem Street
Boston, MA 02113
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Phone: 617-720-6001

A relative newcomer to the North End, Eclano focuses on modern interpretations of regional Italian cooking. Unfortunately, sick homemade pasta dishes did not make up for disastrous clams and a barren dining scene.



Our History at Eclano
Our first visit to Eclano was on a Friday night at 8:00pm.

Appetizers
Eclano's appetizers range from $7 to $14 and include sauteed calamari, seared scallops, baked littleneck clams, grilled sweetbreads, and crispy duck leg confit. We went with the littleneck clams as well as the scallops.

The baked littleneck clams were served with lemon, oregano, and crispy prosciutto. At first bite, we tasted mostly prosciutto, crisp just like bacon. A few moments later, we nearly spit out the sour-tasting clam. Throughout the years, we've eaten many clams served many ways at many temperatures. We'll give Eclano the benefit of the doubt; they insisted that the clams were fresh. Regardless, we would not have fed these clams to our worst enemy.

In terms of cuisine, the clams were an anomaly. We enjoyed the scallops with grilled radicchio, chive, and warm pancetta dressing. Homemade focaccia was served with delicious pureed eggplant and fresh basil with olive oil.

Rating: 6

Main Dishes
When it comes to entrees, Eclano shines. Six housemade pasta dishes, blended with fresh produce, seafood, and meat, range from $17 to $27. Five meat dishes range from $24 to $34. Pasta dishes include tagliatelli, pappardelle, risotto, and potato ravioli with braised veal brisket. Meat dishes include grilled hangar steak, grilled rack of lamb, pan roasted chicken breast, and a grilled veal chop. We opted for the tagliatelli and pappardelle dishes.

Wide, flowing pappardelle, king oyster mushrooms, roasted red peppers, and caramelized onion were served with tender, braised rabbit and juicy rabbit meatballs. Hand-cut saffron tagliatelli was served with shrimp, rabe, and oven roasted tomatoes in a spicy seafood broth. The homemade pastas and creative combinations made for a decidedly sick meal. Portions were ample.

Rating: 8.8

Drinks
Beer, wine, and cordials are available. A bottle of red starts at $38 and a bottle of white starts at $30. Wine is available by the glass, poured generously. There is a small bar near the entrance. Hard booze is not served.

Rating: 8.4

Service
Our waiter was jovial albeit annoying. He grew defensive about the clams, intimating that our palates were to blame. With few guests and little to do, he talked our ears off and re-filled our wine glasses at an alarming pace.

Rating: 6

Ambiance
Eclano was stunningly barren. There was only one other party. The restaurant seemed like a model room at Crate and Barrel - lots of new, dark wood, crystal clean, and no soul. Vacant walls underscored Eclano's emptiness.

Rating: 6

Et Cetera

Trivia: Eclano is owned by Caterina DiPrisco, former co-owner of Trattoria a Scalinatella. Eclano is named for DiPrisco's hometown outside of Naples.

Menu: Check out Eclano's web site for more information

Reservations: Eclano is on OpenTable

Transportation: Park in one of several nearby parking garages or take the Green Line or Orange Line to Haymarket.

Dress: Casual

Hours: Dinner is served every day from 5pm until 11pm.

Labels: Eclano, Italian, North-End, Sick-Potential

posted by The King of Sick Meals @ 3:44 PM 0 comments 

Taranta

Wednesday, May 16, 2007

Overall Rating: Sick Meals (84 out of 100)

210 Hanover Street
Boston, MA 02113
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Phone: 617-720-0052

Located on Hanover Street in the North End, Taranta fuses Southern Italian cuisine with a Peruvian twist. Dining at Taranta proved to be a sick culinary adventure full of robust flavors and aromas.



Our History at Taranta
Our first visit to Taranta was on a Friday night at 8:00pm.

Appetizers
Appetizers range from $9.95 for caprese to $13.95 for coccio di pesce e legumio, baby octopus, cuttlefish, clams, and chickpeas in a spicy tomato sauce. Our party sampled the antipasto as well as calzoncini fritti, a trio of mini calzones stuffed with leeks and mozzarella, beef tenderloin, and baccala.

Taranta's antipasto presents a delightful medley of capicolla, mushrooms, sundried tomatoes, grilled zucchini, fresh mozzarella, marinated olives, and artichoke hearts. Although we would have liked a little bit more meat, the dish succeeds in priming your palate for more southern Italian sickness. The antipasto is $12.95 for one and $19.95 for two. We ordered the antipasto for one and equitably shared it among three people.

The mini calzones resemble hearty, stuffed pastries. Leeks and mozzarella, beef tenderloin, and baccala delivered an exciting mix of tastes and textures.

Rating: 8.8

Main Dishes
Choose from pasta, chicken, fish, and meat dishes. Six pasta selections range from $18.95 to $24.95. Seven chicken, fish, and meat plates range from $21.95 to $33.95. Our party shared pan-seared tuna for $26.95, Macadamia crusted salmon for $26.95, and orecchiette with sausage for $22.95.

Cooked to perfection, the rare, pan seared tuna was served over braised leeks and crispy potatoes with a sauce of sweet roasted peppers and capers. A slightly-crunchy Macadamia crust infused the salmon filet with flavor; the salmon was served over a herbed risotto cake and Peruvian asparagus. Finally, tender orecchiette with sweet Abruzzese sausage provided a satisfying complement to our tuna and salmon dishes.

Other notables include espresso crusted fillet mignon and grilled lack of lamb.

Rating: 9.1

Drinks
A bottle of wine starts at $32; wine is also available by the glass. We sipped several tumba chola martinis, a sweet mix of Peruvian Pisco, limoncello, and white grape juice. Taranta also features a score of aperitivi and digestivi. Three after-dinner grappas sent us stumbling onto Hanover Street.

Rating: 8.5

Service
Our waiter rendered manic service. He was sometimes charming - mostly when speaking to my lovely female companions - but brusque and careless at other times. Upon sitting at our table, it took him over 15 minutes to acknowledge our presence. He forgot about my first drink order; when I reminded him, he proceeded to bring the wrong drink.

Rating: 6.9

Ambiance
Soft Italian guitar music wafts through the air, played by a friendly gentleman who strolls around the restaurant. In nice weather, the front windows unfold, opening up a ripe scene for prolific people-watching.

Taranta is a nice spot for a romantic dinner or a night out with close friends.

Rating: 8.6

Et Cetera

Trivia: Taranta offers several recipes on its web site.

Menu: Check out the menu here

Reservations: Taranta is on OpenTable

Transportation: Taranta validates at the Parcel 7 Garage for $1.00 for up to two hours and $3.00 for three hours. Valet is available for $20. Via the T, take the Green Line or Orange Line to Haymarket.

Dress: Casual

Hours: Dinner is served seven days per week from 5:30pm until 10:00pm.

Labels: Italian, North-End, Sick-Meals, Taranta

posted by The King of Sick Meals @ 8:22 PM 0 comments 

L'Osteria

Saturday, January 13, 2007

Overall Rating: Not So Sick (67 out of 100)

104 Salem Street
Boston, MA 02113
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Phone: 617-723-7847

L'Osteria is a family-owned restaurant tucked away on Salem Street in the North End. Growing up in an Italian-American household, The King of Sick Meals has experienced thousands of home-cooked Italian dinners. Dining at L'Osteria was like dining at home. But mom never charged us over 100 bucks.



Our L'Osteria History
Our first trip to L'Osteria was on a Friday night at 8:30pm.

Appetizers
L'Osteria's menu includes nine appetizers, seven salads, and five soups; the prices range from $5.50 for insalata mista (the house salad) to $14.95 for the caprese. We shared stuffed mushrooms and the insalata mista.

The insalata mista was just like mom used to make - after a long day at work and with no motivation to cook dinner. When mom served iceberg lettuce, sliced red onions, one olive, and two stale tomato slices, we were grateful for her effort after a long day. When L'Osteria tosses this mix together and drowns it in vinaigrette for $5.50, we're not so grateful.

The stuffed mushrooms consisted of undercooked mushrooms and dry breadcrumbs bathed in a butter-based sauce.

We should have tried a bowl of minestrone or pasta e fagioli.

Rating: 4.8

Main Dishes
The entree lineup includes 17 pasta, nine chicken, 12 veal, and 11 seafood dishes. For the pasta dishes, you can choose from linguine, ziti, and spaghetti; the pastas range from $9.95 to $17.95. The chicken, veal, and seafood dishes range from $15.95 to $23.95. House specialties include chicken merenga, chicken pescatore, bocconcini di vitello triestini, and veal valdostana.

We ordered shrimp francese as well as the veal and eggplant and we got exactly what we expected - something like mom would have made with a few hours of preparation on a Sunday evening. The veal and eggplant were baked with marinara sauce and mozzarella cheese. The shrimp francese was breaded perfectly and sauteed with an appropriate amount of lemon and wine. Both dishes were served with a bowl of pasta. Portions were substantial.

Rating: 8.4

Drinks
A carafe of the house white (Pinot Grigio) or house red (Merlot) is available for $18. The house white was mediocre, but the wine list included a fair variety of selections. A bottle of white starts at $26 and a bottle of red starts at $24. Beer is available for $5. Hard booze is not served.

Rating: 7.9

Service
The lifeless staff went through the motions. No one wanted to be there. Neither the menu nor our waitress explained the house specialties.

A busboy cleared my plate before The Queen of Sick Meals had finished her meal. He also scooped up my half-finished ziti without asking if I was finished.

Sometimes, mom went through the motions, too.

Rating: 5.4

Ambiance
Located on quiet Salem Street, I had always wanted to visit L'Osteria. A good crowd, dim lighting, candles, and paper "Italia" place mats added to the experience. "Grocery store" Italian bread and disinterested staff detracted.

Rating: 7.2

Et Cetera

Trivia: If you're with your significant other and would like to walk off an evening of sick meals in the North End, head to Battery Street - to Burroughs Wharf - and walk beyond the condominiums until you reach the water and see a park bench. This tranquil, romantic spot is one of the sickest in Boston.

Menu: Check out the dinner menu here

Reservations: L'Osteria is on OpenTable

Parking: L'Osteria validates for the Parcel 7 Garage located next to the Haymarket MBTA station at the corner of New Sudbury and Congress. With validation, parking is only $1 for up to two hours and $3 for up to three hours.

Dress: You can dress casually at L'Osteria.

Labels: Italian, LOsteria, North-End, Not-So-Sick

posted by The King of Sick Meals @ 6:31 PM 0 comments